With a red Supreme bumbag strapped confrontationally beyond a model'southward chest, yesterday Louis Vuitton unveiled a collaboration set up to go fashion legend. Audio similar an overstatement? Think nigh it. Back in 2000, Vuitton issued the New York streetwear stalwart with a cease and desist over some designs which, true to form, put a twist on the French business firm'south famous monogram. Today, as the lines betwixt high fashion and street culture go along to disappear, every bit the earth rediscovers logomania and as hoodies become a common sight on the track, the former warring parties take signed a peace treaty and joined forces. Information technology'due south 2017, and all bets are off. The rules don't employ anymore. And that's kind of a big deal.
While Supreme has previously partnered with the likes of Comme des Garçons and Aquascutum, historically, the human relationship betwixt the industry-driven side of mode and (for want of a better word) the earth of streetwear has been one based on taking from rather than working with. Both accept borrowed from each other, simply while brands like Supreme, Palace, Stüssy have been paramount in a legacy of appropriating and subverting the symbols of high fashion (remember Palace's Chanel tees?), when information technology comes to the runways, it's more than of a one-manner dialogue. Under big brands, sub-, club-, or street culture tin oft feel defanged – throwaway references that, beyond the mood lath, acquit little relevance to the ateliers of whichever designer is producing the stuff. Between both high fashion and streetwear, at that place'due south a sense of common dismissal. Fashion is written off every bit the domain of the privileged and wealthy, while the latter gets put downwards as nothing more than hoodies and graphic t-shirts.
"James (Jebbia) is a hero of mine" – Kim Jones
Kim Jones, whose familiarity with Supreme dates dorsum decades (and who has his own ties to street and t-shirt culture having previously worked at cult brand slash wholesale bureau Gimme 5), certainly doesn't take this snobbish point of view. "James is a hero of mine," he said backstage of Supreme founder James Jebbia, revealing that the collaboration had been underway for a year. Taking its main inspiration from New York, the drove blended the all-time of Vuitton menswear with the metropolis's silhouettes and icons – baseball caps and shirts, Basquiat-inspired tailoring. Then there was the denim, woven through with both brands' logos and looking like something you might find on Canal Street rather than Bond Street. "Marc did that years ago for Vuitton," Jones credited, "but I merely thought it was really prissy to do. Information technology's tongue-in-cheek, a bit Dapper Dan, you know? That's what things are now."
Of course, there's an irony in Louis Vuitton doing a collection which openly references infamous bootlegger Dapper Dan, the Harlem icon who found cult fame in the 80s thanks to his DIY designs, crafted from textile covered in brand logos. He was making Vuitton fix-to-wear earlier they were – but his repeated thwarting of Intellectual Belongings rights saw the companies he copied shut down his store. With the legitimising of his fakes, his inclusion in the official Vuitton canon added a sense of circularity to the story, a seal of blessing for the creativity of those appropriators, and the dimensions they've added to the famous monogram, for instance.
"I don't call information technology streetwear… James wouldn't phone call it streetwear either. It's just menswear at present. It's only modernistic menswear" – Kim Jones
Despite their differing heritages (1854 Paris versus 1994 downtown New York) Vuitton and Supreme have a lot in common. Both are at the top of their respective fields, ardent perfectionists, experts when it comes to brand image, and with logos so iconic that they have transcended unproblematic advice to become symbolic of aspiration, prestige, and actuality. No-one serious about their fashion would buy a fake Vuitton bag, and no-one large on their streetwear would be defenseless dead in knock-off Supreme. And while the budget needed to keep up an LV habit is more than what'due south required to shop Supreme's Thursday drops, they both produce die-hard fans, for whom owning and collecting products is a hobby.
So what does it all mean for fashion? Well, LVMH aren't rumoured to be taking Supreme off Jebbia's easily simply withal, but the collaboration is seismic. The joining together the world's most valuable luxury make with the world's about iconic streetwear outpost is an act which throws out old ideas of bureaucracy, which opens up new possibilities for collaborations in mode. Thanks to the likes of Vetements, Gosha Rubchinskiy, and even Gucci, the last eighteen months have seen a steady erosion of the wall between high way and streetwear. This evidence just tore what was left of information technology down. What remains? Something new. Menswear for today. "I don't telephone call it streetwear… James wouldn't call information technology streetwear either," Jones remarked. "Information technology's merely menswear at present. It's just modernistic menswear and I think that if you lot look at every collection, y'all'll see that it's everywhere. It's simply what people wear, you know?"
0 Response to "Lous Vuitton X Surpeme Fashion Show"
Post a Comment